THE RESTAURANT "U
KALICHA"
This gastronomic oasis and the
meeting place of fine tasters from all over the whole world didn't always look
so romantic as it does today. The restaurant conceals legends but also historic
truths. In the period of the influence of "Švejk"
(read: Shvayk) - accordingly before the First World
War - the gastronomic as well as social level, upon which we had become
accustomed in "The Goblet", was quite different.
Let's begin with the story!
"The Goblet" in the
days of the "Good Soldier Švejk" was a
completely ordinary, uninteresting, run-of-the-mill bar-restaurant in Prague. With today's uniqueness and the originality
of design there is no comparison with the past. Unfortunately, no photo
documentation remains. The concept "Restaurant 'The Goblet' " first
became a focal point of international attention after the translation of
"The Good Soldier Švejk" (The author:
Jaroslav Hašek) into German and the opening of the theater performance of this work on the stage of the world
famous Piscator theater at Nollendorfplatz
in Berlin in the year 1927. The German producer, Erwin Piscator, helped "Švejk" to break through onto the international
literary scene. The theater
production of Piscator first awakened interest in Russia. Afterwards England,
France, Italy and other countries soon followed. In
the course of time "The Good Soldier Švejk"
became part of world literature. In opposition to several, well-known legends,
Piscator never looked for "The Goblet", since he was never in Prague.
That smoky and dirty bar became, in spite of itself, already in the 1930's of
the twentieth century, an object of curiosity by several locals as well as
foreign publishers and personalities of the time. Men of letters and artists
from Germany, who were visiting the "racing reporter" Egon Erwin Kisch, expressed their wish to visit the restaurant. At
this time apparently the Soviet General Shaposchnikoff
was a guest...
At any rate it appears necessary, to let the historical existence of the
persons, whom Jaroslav Hašek describes in his work,
appear in light of the truth. The restaurant "The Goblet" belonged
not to "the restaurateur Palivec", rather
to a certain man named Shmied, also known as
"The boor". Palivec worked there only as a
part-time waiter. Mrs. Müller was not the "house servant Švejks", rather the brothel madam in the house of
ill-repute, which was located in the same building.In
reality "Švejk" was Francis Strašlipka (a servant of Lieutenant Lukáš).
In the restaurant "The Goblet" he was a regular, but most of all he
was interested in the "contents of the house of ill-repute of Mrs.
Müller..."
For the gastronomic and social
standards of today, the building was first re-modeled
in the 1950's. Already at that time "The Goblet" was a sought out,
culinary goal of the people of Prague, as well as foreign tourists. To get a place here without reservation was pretty much
impossible. In the year 1992 the original owners - the brothers, Paul and
Thomas TÖPFER - got their private place back from the State.With
their exemplary industriousness and willingness to make sacrifices the two of
them have resumed the culinary tradition of the Bohemian kitchen in the
restaurant "The Goblet".
A final comment:
Whoever wants to get to know the
originality of the Bohemian kitchen and to taste the well-tempered beer has to
find their way here. The whole thing is here, on the grounds of "The
Goblet", where "The Good Soldier Švejk"
(Strašlipka) found their beginning.
Jan Berwid-Buquoy
The author wishes a good appetite and much enjoyment
with the reading.